This page is dedicated to what can go wrong with a color organ.
But any color organ that plugs into the wall deals with hazardous voltages. If you aren't prepared to know and follow high-voltage precautions, you shouldn't be poking around in a line-operated appliance!
For testing color organs, I have found it handy to get a set of small, identical incandescent lamps. Small night-lights from your local discount store would be fine. Plug them all in, power up the color organ, and see if some of the channels work and others do not.
If you have thrown out the documentation, you might try contacting the kit manufacturer for replacement paperwork.
When all else fails, you can trace out the circuit yourself, reverse-engineering it.
Fancier color organs have multiple channels, each of which is sensitive to a different sound frequency (pitch) range. The high note of an alto flute might light a red light, while the low-pitched thump of a bass drum might light a blue light.
General block diagram of a three-channel color organ.
How can color organs get away with not working properly? I believe that the reason for this is that color organs are simply not a demanding application, so defects are not readily noticed.
Consider a very high-end color organ with 12 channels, with a light for each channel lined up in a row. The color organ is running at a piano recital, part of which includes a smooth run from the lowest note of the keyboard to the top. As the notes run higher, the lights follow, and the crowd loves it. This is a demanding application. I'll bet this kind of thing is rare.
Consider a D.J. using a common three-channel color organ. Each channel drives a couple of PAR cans, shining on the dance floor. The music is loud and fast. So are the dancers. Do you think that anybody will really notice precisely how the lights correspond to the sounds? Do you think anybody will really care?
So, most of the time sloppy operation is good enough. It's cheaper and easier to design and build something sloppy. And if nobody ever notices a defect, they will never complain, and the defect will never be resolved.
Color organs vary in how they get the sound input that drives them.
But before we go into the details, please make sure that:
This is the input side of
Smart Kit Electronics SmartKit #1014D.
It uses an electret microphone and a two-transistor amplifier.
Note that a low voltage DC supply is required to run it.
The Graymark #G152 uses a crystal microphone for sound input. The CTI Kit #9935 allows use of a crystal microphone as one of its sound input options.
The Chaney Electronics #C6353 is an example of a color organ that uses a speaker as a dynamic microphone.
If your color organ uses a similar circuit and doesn't react well, here are some things to try:
This is part of the
Smart Kit Electronics SmartKit #1132D.
I moved some things around and drew a red line to highlight the fact that one section (on the left)
operates at a low voltage, and is isolated from the section that operates at a high voltage (on the right).
In this type of design, there is no isolation between the electronics of your stereo and the electronics of the color organ. But since the portion of the color organ that listens to your stereo operates at a low voltage, the stereo should still be safe.
Here are some typical optocoupler-based input stages:
If you have tried one of these and have some tips or comments for users, please pass them along!
Because optocoupler-based color organs require a strong signal,
they can't operate with low input signals like a microphone or line-level.
You can remedy this situation by adding an amplifier.
This diagram, from http://www.hauntedillinois.com,
shows a simple amplifier that makes the color organ run from low input levels:
For details, please visit the nice folks at http://www.hauntedillinois.com.
Envision a nice three-channel color organ:
| frequency range | light color | responds well to |
|---|---|---|
| high | red | alto flute |
| medium | yellow | trumpet |
| low | blue | bass drum |
Then, there is a flute solo and all you see is red light for 10 minutes.
You have several choices on how to deal with this:
If you want to preserve the general-purpose nature of the color organ, you will probably want to leave it alone, or perhaps turn up the sensitivity on the lower channels.
But if the only purpose of the color organ is to serve on application, like simulating lightning, it's silly to spend money for color organ channels that respond to audio prequencies not present in a thundercrash. That would be a good time to alter the frequency responses of the channels.
This is the schematic symbol for a "resistor".
It resists the flow of electricity (AC and DC), throwing away some of it as heat.
For most resistors,
the amount of resistance does not depend on the frequency of an AC signal through it.
These are the schematic symbols for "capacitors".
They acts like resistors (capacitive reactance) with a value depending on the frequency of the AC signal.
The higher the frequency, the lower the resistance.
Capacitive reactance is given by the formula:
These are the schematic symbols for "inductors",
They act like resistors with a value depending on the frequency of the AC signal.
The lower the frequency, the lower the resitance.
Inductive reactance is given by the formula:
This is a simple L/C "lowpass" filter.
Low frequencies encounter little resistance from the inductor and pass easily through.
Any high frequencies that get through the inductor are shorted out by the capacitor.
This is a simple L/C "highpass" filter.
High frequencies encounter little resistance from the capacitor and pass easily through.
Any low frequencies that get through the capacitor and shorted to ground by the inductor.
If you prefer to think of it in a slightly different way, this is a voltage divider.
This voltage divider uses resistors.
The output voltage (taken across R2) is R2 / (R1 + R2).
The L/C circuits are also voltage-dividers. Instead of using resistors, the effective resistance is provided by frequency-sensitive components.
Well, inductors cost a few cents more than resistors. I have yet to see a kit that uses them. Instead, kits tend to use R/C filters, where a voltage divider is composed of a resistor and a single frequency-sensitive component (a capacitor). The filter is not as precise and sharp, and that's probably just fine for the intended purpose.
For the sake of discussion, we will consider a color organ that responds to frequencies from 500 Hz to 2 kHz.
This is the low-frequency channel of the
Ramsey Electronics #ML-1.
It is fairly typical for inexpensive color organs.
A microfarad (uFd) is 0.000,001 F, so the capacitor in the schematic is 0.000,000,01 F. Let's see how much of the signal gets through the voltage divider at several frequencies.
| frequency | capacitor value | capacitive reactance | fraction of signal passed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 500 Hz | .01 uFd | 32000 Ohms | .76 |
| 1 kHz | .01 uFd | 16000 Ohms | .61 |
| 1.5 kHz | .01 uFd | 11000 Ohms | .51 |
| 2 kHz | .01 uFd | 8000 Ohms | .44 |
What happens to the low end when we change the capacitor?
| frequency | capacitor value | capacitive reactance | fraction of signal passed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 500 Hz | .001 uFd | 320000 Ohms | .97 |
| 500 Hz | .01 uFd | 32000 Ohms | .76 |
| 500 Hz | .1 uFd | 3200 Ohms | .24 |
We put together a little JavaScript calculator that will let you play with these calculations.
We will use as a model this simple low-pass R/C filter.
Please fill in the following values and then press "CALCULATE".
This is the mid-frequency channel of a design that will go nameless.
This design would probable be acceptable if it used an inductor instead of a resistor. The inductor would short out low frequencies, the capacitor would short out high frequencies, and we would be left with some stuff in the middle.
But the substitution of a resistor instead of an inductor ruins things. All we have here is a poor low-pass filter, with additional across-the board attenuation. Yuck!
This is the mid-frequency channel of another design that will go nameless.
I believe that the designer was trying to make a band-pass filter by routing the signal through first a low-pass filter (boxed in blue), and then a high-pass filter (boxed in red). Unfortunately, the ordering of the components in the schematic make little difference to where the electricity is going. Looking closer at the filter, and rearranging the components a little...
We really have a resistance and capacitive reactance in parallel.
Ultimately, it provides a combined resistance with a value depending on the frequency of the signal.
The same R/C combo, with identical values, appears on the top and bottom. This forms a voltage divider that wastes half the signal coming in to it.
Since the top and the bottom have the same value (which varies depending on the frequency), the circuit will always divide the signal in half. The divider will just draw more current at high frequencies.
This is the high-frequency channel of the
Ramsey Electronics #ML-1.
It is fairly typical for inexpensive color organs.
A microfarad (uFd) is 0.000,001 F, so the capacitor in the schematic is 0.000,000,01 F. Let's see how much of the signal gets through the voltage divider at several frequencies.
| frequency | capacitor value | capacitive reactance | fraction of signal passed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 500 Hz | .01 uFd | 32000 Ohms | .24 |
| 1 kHz | .01 uFd | 16000 Ohms | .39 |
| 1.5 kHz | .01 uFd | 11000 Ohms | .49 |
| 2 kHz | .01 uFd | 8000 Ohms | .56 |
What happens to the high end when we change the capacitor?
| frequency | capacitor value | capacitive reactance | fraction of signal passed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 kHz | .001 uFd | 80000 Ohms | .11 |
| 2 kHz | .01 uFd | 8000 Ohms | .56 |
| 2 kHz | .1 uFd | 800 Ohms | .93 |
We put together a little JavaScript calculator that will let you play with these calculations.
We will use this model of a simple high-pass R/C filter.
Please fill in the following values and then press "CALCULATE".
Things to check:
Replacing a blown TRIAC or SCR isn't too difficult. You can look up the old part in a cross-reference guide to find a compatible replacement. It is seldom necessary to get an exact replacement, as long as the type or part is the same, current is at least as high as the original, and voltage is at least as high as the original. Be aware that some electrically compatible replacements have different physical pin arrangements - read the documentation closely so see if you have to twist the wiring to make it fit. When I blew a TRIAC on Electronic Goldmine G3319, I took the opportunity to upgrade all the channels by dropping in Radio Shack part# 276-1000 (6 Amp, 400 Volt, different pinout as original), that can be used for a little over 600 watts. Wolfstone reader Brittainkr wrote to me in November 2005, saying that he used NTE 5608 Triac (8 Amp, 400 V, same pinout as original).
Thank you for visiting. Your comments are welcome.
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